Відео

@pally15 Welcome!! :D 👍

@igasem Glad to hear it :D 👍 I have been testing diodes and sand batteries, thermal storage. diodes are temperature limited sadly. However since we're just making heat from PV, diodes can still be used to extract more heat. And so I am storing the extra heat in water. I hope to publish video about that "as soon as humanly possible".

@mariodesira7188 Thanks :) I would suggest some kind of DC converter for safety, because direct PV can be extremely risky. This is an extreme test for research purposes. A buck converter should do the job, and with a battery in the laptop you'd be in good shape for off electrical grid computing

@@solarpoweredge Thanks for the feedback :) So DC converter or buck converter should suffice - -- in the event of a solar flare taking out the grid for years, batteries eventually become useless, this may be the only viable option! 🙂

@mariodesira7188 You welcome :) I sure hope we don't have a flare, but I'm all about preparing no matter what :D

@fleaniswerkhardt4647 Diodes, in theory, can tolerate well over 100C. I prefer to operate them at 40-50C for heating. For cooking food, boiling water, thermal storage etc. I prefer 100C. All diodes are in series, this is called a diode chain or diode string. Earlier diode-powered research: ua-cam.com/play/PL8a6nRTNyF9PK7SExvQKNhN0t3RUP9pT7.html

@@solarpoweredge 100C would be more than enough for my application. I have a couple of dozen 50A bridge rectifiers (KBPC5010) sitting on the shelf so hopefully I can put them to good use. But as they each have four terminals and 4 diodes - how do you wire them in series?

@fleaniswerkhardt4647 The simplest answer is to look up the schematic of a bridge rectifier - notice 2 of the terminals would allow DC transit across 2 junctions? Another method - use a meter set on diode mode to check which terminals have 2 diode junctions and note the polarity. And with this type of diode package, we get 2 diodes in parallel. I actually think that is awesome. As long as one of those diodes doesn't short out that is...

@SteveB-p2x Hello Steve, you're too kind and thanks :) Wire size, depends on the project? I deliberately collect nearly every gauge of nichrome, it all works... I'd suggest getting a few sizes in case you want to step gauge up / down for a custom build. It's about power (w) and resistance first, wire size comes later! For 2x100w panels, we would need to find the "max power voltage" (some call it MPPT or MPP). Then use I/V/R (Ohms) to calculate a resistance. Then you can start spooling out the wire and measuring its resistance w/ a meter to find the ideal setup. *PS: don't breathe the smoke when nichrome first burns, after it burns that should go away. *Quartz element: having more than one means you can use a switch to vary the power flow, but you have a good point - it also functions as a backup. *I'm experimenting towards making a cooling tower but it's a long way to go. There are motors on the usual online auction site that run on DC from 1/4-3/4HP or even higher. Those might make a good conversion! I have one and have been experimenting with it for another project, but need to make a motor coupler and that's proving to be pretty difficult. Hope this answers your questions, but feel free to let me know if I missed anything :D

@DenialPrasad-by2lb Hi, please check the wiring (all connections) as those sometimes fail. It's also good to test the solar panel separately while disconnected if you have the equipment (multimeter can do the testing)

That would probably be enough power, but the AC switches and mechanisms in these heaters are not safe for DC. See this video for a test ua-cam.com/video/Cu2gNi5oVe8/v-deo.html

@dragproet I think we could use an inverter like the one shown, although it's hard to find inverters with such wide voltage inputs

@neckofthewoods24 A large solar channel talked down on the 300ah battery. And in response, Wattcycle decided to re-label them with smaller capacity. It's a strange world. With the price drop this battery starts looking really attractive, I would certainly buy it.

@iamsemjaza Good point. Been running all my PCs on sine wave to be safe. That said, since a square wave UPS is supposed to run only a few minutes while the PC shuts down, maybe that's what makes the difference. I'd like to see a documented long term test of PCs and servers on square wave inverters. My main concern is the input stage of an advanced ATX power supply - it might not expect a square wave. I need to find a test PC and try running it on square wave for a year and see what happens.

@@solarpoweredge I would, in fact, love to see the results of a long term test like that :)

@@solarpoweredge IN a related note: I ran tube TVs, VCRs, Air Conditioners, Desktop and laptop computers, etc etc etc on square wave inverters for days at a time during power outages and they were all fine.

@iamsemjaza OK it's on the list :D would make a good video I think

@iamsemjaza This is very interesting to know, thanks for sharing! I want to test a fridge or AC (non-variable compressor type) on modified vs. sine, because apparently the compressor can run hot. The question is "how hot". The only real testing I've seen is in scientific papers that show damage to inductive motors running off square wave, but they are extremely technical and hard to read.

@despinapapadopoulos8175 Welcome! and I hear you.. so many wires going everywhere... maybe I'll record a part 2 :) in any case, I'm glad you liked the video and I truly appreciate your kind feedback!

@NewBeganningsAgain Hello, the solar panel is ok for a supplemental (trickle) or maintenance charge. It would be very tough to keep charged on that alone. As far as the build quality and function, I like it. They sent me another one with 5 panels, and it's bulkier but the solar charging is definitely more powerful. Both of these power banks are in current use in my workshop charging smartphone cameras and other utility purposes. The one thing I don't have in the shop is a hardcore smartphone, just older phones and USB 1/2A stuff. 5 panel version ua-cam.com/video/Na3_pYi903o/v-deo.html

@luzcip1195 Sure could give it a try - if you have a DC wattmeter, that makes it easier to see how much power is available

@albertob1867 It's a low cost inverter, but I think for the money it's decent quality. So far I've had the display glitch out on me, but after a reset it came back. The power output is suitable for running computer equipment etc. so your modem should be no problem at all

@@solarpoweredge Thanks for the info! Do you think it would be okay to run a NAS on this inverter? A bit worried about power fluctuations and surges with a NAS

@albertob1867 Welcome! Sure it can run a NAS. Should not be a problem. Incidentally I am building a solar powered NAS project right now, but it will take a slightly different direction. In any case - if you are still very concerned about power fluctuations (data corruption etc.) a small UPS could be used after the inverter to offer further protection. Kind of expensive though :D

@nasirmohammed8118 Hello, the meter is shown in the video (linked below in this comment) and there is an amazon link in the description! Because I can't post web store links here in comments.... please let me know if you can't find it ua-cam.com/video/OEPnwosBYE0/v-deo.html

@CoolPad-ey5vr I've been thinking due to this being AC, with wires running in 2 directions a lot of effect could be cancelled out. So for this reason, ohmic resistance (and heat) seem to be the primary factors. But there must be some inductive effects and certainly EMF that such a coil could produce - I have no way to measure it though

@AWAKENLIBERTASINVESTMENTGR-y4v NP :)

@DimitriPappas They do still work - the units I have are a few years old, so they may not be the exact same as the ones on the shelf now? One I accidentally burnt out in an experiment, but it can probably be repaired. I don't use GTIs as much now, trying to move over to direct PV-DC powered stuff.

@polishhotdog933 That's a Lifepo4 bus bar, amazon and other places have them. Another method is take some copper bar, drill a hole in both ends, maybe grind off the corners a bit.

@@solarpoweredgeOk , thanks for responding.👍

@polishhotdog933 NP :)

@riff42 More diodes in parallel can be used to dissipate the heat through more junctions, so they don't get as hot, and maybe they would be more reliable. I am using 2 parallel strings on my larger heaters. But before anything else, we need to know the actual max power voltage of the solar panel(s). This could be determined by using a variable load as appeared in one of my videos... sweeping the panels with a DC converter during a period of good sun, or whatever is most convenient... anyway, once you know that voltage, build out enough diodes to regulate as close to that voltage as you can get. It doesn't need to be perfect. If you're a volt away, not a big deal. Also, diodes are a bit temperature sensitive, therefore we must take the operating temperature of the heater into account. That's why I use DC fans to smooth out the temperature profile... it's a heater after all, and it's no good to keep the heat inside the diodes anyway. We want to heat the room, not the diodes. I recommend to start with an experiment on the bench connected to one of your solar panels and build out a working test rig with a wattmeter. That's how I started. Once you have it working well enough and observe how they behave, it's easier to scale up to a larger system with more solar panels and bigger diodes. Also, I highly recommend reading the paper "hot diodes". It's not exactly about space heating, yet still has extremely relevant information. Here's the link to my video about the Hot diodes paper ua-cam.com/video/whOXELklxQ4/v-deo.html I hope this helps, if you have any questions please feel free to ask. -Dave

@@solarpoweredge Thank you for replying! My panels I am using are 250w with a VMPP of 31v. My first experiment was with 30 diodes, since that is what I bought. The array got nice and toasty for a non-100% sun covered panel, and was still toasty when it got overcast, which, is basiclly what you are proving. My concern was....how do I know if I am over-driving the diodes, and if I can leave it sitting there, for days on end, without cooking them. I'd like to play with solar/heat sand batteries, as I believe they are called. I will look over that paper, and video, and keep trying to absorb all your details. But so far, there is so much info, I still question the "but what about..." questions that pop up.

@riff42 No problem :) I suggest to measure the temperature of your diodes while in operation. I have spent a LOT of time running diodes chains and researching their applications, and have concluded that they should probably not exceed 100C for long term use. I'd recommend using a fan and heat sink to cool them down. In that case, I can run around 40-50C. The diodes themselves can power a DC fan with some caution (make sure the voltage doesn't go too high and burn out the fan). In some of my diode videos, you can see I was running 12v fans straight from the diodes, with no DC converter. That works even on a solar panel pushing in excess of 55vdc, pretty neat. If you can keep the diodes a reasonable temperature, then they should be fine. PS I created a list of diode related videos ua-cam.com/play/PL8a6nRTNyF9PK7SExvQKNhN0t3RUP9pT7.html

@@solarpoweredge I don't like how these round rectifiers can't loose heat easily, while stud/bridge packages are expensive. I don't know the math, but I wonder if other diodes will work, BUT only need a few. i guess that depends on voltage drop? Anyway, I am looking into a bath of silicone oil in a heat-sink style container!!! I will be adding a thermal shut off to whatever I make. Work in Progress!!! Thank you for your awesome work!

@riff42 Yeah the axial diodes are cheap but a bit harder to work with. I've tried oil, heat sink compounds etc. at the end of the day, as long as they don't overheat it works great. Sounds like an awesome project. Glad you like my videos and thanks for watching :D

@georgeh9967 Thank you! so far I haven't managed to burn it out! We'll see how long it lasts...

@TaigiTWeseDiplomat--Formosan Hi... yes it's a square wave inverter

@groovyone5492 Yeah I wish I had done that, I'll try to remember to do this in a later video

@lastresort1757 These heaters work! I'd open them and check all the wiring just to be extra safe!

@mppforall Awesome! Congrats on the oven.... it's a real hassle getting this thing back together. It's like a sharp rubix cube puzzle... I keep the glass tubes due to grease spatter potentially contacting the coils. I "suspect" that is one of the main reasons why toaster ovens use quartz tubes. However in either case we have to watch the oven while it's in operation... safety first :) PS thanks for the kind feedback on this work and I'm glad you found it useful :D 👍

Ai said the infrared red tubes would cook the food faster 😮‍💨. So tomorrow I'm gonna peel it apart and put the tubes back in. I also liked what you said about safety for grease splatter. I put insulation in the part where the bell sits and it stops the sound of the bell. I'm going to cut out that one section because the timer and bell work just fine with nothing wired up and can help be a reminder ​that food is in the oven. Looking forward to doing the largersize. Thank again for sharing your knowledge us.@@solarpoweredge

@mppforall Very interesting... because the quartz emits a different infrared wavelength perhaps? That's a lot of work! But it's good shop practice... I lost count how many times I rebuilt these ovens lol... and then again to record the footage. I also put insulation inside where the bell is - as the entire enclosure gets super hot. It made the bell sound kind of dull. But that's OK. PS I ordered more parts for the larger oven, I will upload and share the first cooking session as soon as humanly possible :D

@mppforall Yeah I need to do more video about this oven after some upgrades... btw no part of this project was fun lol. I intend to do a follow-up on 18v ovens as soon as humanly possible!!!

​@@solarpoweredgeI'll be waiting on the edge of my seat!😊

@mppforall :D 👍

@cdy4rp It depends on temperature: diodes should really not exceed about 100C in my opinion. This is for best longevity. I am experimenting with a sand battery + diodes + nichrome to see what works and what doesn't. Will share the results as soon as humanly possible :)

@itistrue5451 Hi, there is a website link posted in the description, below the video. Hope that helps, I cannot post the links here in chat

Ty for your time

@itistrue5451 Welcome :)

@HalifaxComputersRepair Based on the performance running other loads, I am 100% sure it will handle a rework station. You could have a solar panel outside and run a cable inside to power your system, would be a cool setup

@raysoucie489 Excellent. I have 2 cheap msw inverters. The amazing part is, they still work but we'll see in a few more years lol

@taunteratwill1787 Yeah pretty much every low cost inverter just doubles the rated power for decorative purposes. Under a surge test they either burn or fail to deliver the rated amps. Good point about MTBF, we simply don't know... however I was very impressed the inverter could keep itself so cool. So I feel it has a good chance to survive my use case :D

@MikeChattos-uv8sp I'd suggest at least 10. In good sun, you should get some usable heat

@zuppyzuppy2354 Yes, I run them alone also. In fact that's part of the heating system for my workshop :D it's not at all necessary to parallel with nichrome. However the more Watts the hotter they get, so you need better heat sinks, fans etc. Due to having a lot of converted DC heaters, I like running them in parallel. Smaller heat sink requirement etc. I have tried oil too, it's messy but that can work

@@solarpoweredge did you make a video with oil? Would be interesting.

@zuppyzuppy2354 good video idea I'll keep it on the list. Working on a 3rd and larger diode heater now. If that makes it to video, I could also discuss other methods of cooling such as oil etc.

@ would be very nice to see a way to measure the heat produced... in some way...and make a comparison with nichrome. I've very interested in that since I'm going to install a 6/7 kwp array in DIY just for heating home in next months...I would like someting safe and something without inverters and so on (offgrid).

@zuppyzuppy2354 Measurement of heat is done by tracking watt-hours, which can be translated to btu/hr. Obviously, when the heating element tracks close to the solar max power voltage nearly all day (very much like MPPT) we get more watt-hours, which in turn simply means more heat. Your heating project sounds very exciting! We are working on expanding the existing system with racking and more panels. Solar electric heat is addicting.

@billyboozer8806 Hi Billy, thanks for your kind feedback, and glad you like these videos. So much work goes into them and your feedback is very encouraging to hear. I love my sheds... hope to repaint and do a little maintenance on them someday :D take care man. PS I agree, DIY stuff is better than TV any day :)

@peterhoebarth4234 :)

@JS-gf6uc Hello, can you load test each panel individually?

@virgilwalker683 Hi, thanks for your kind feedback!! take care :D 👍

@alvaro.piner1917 Hello, the power wall is unregulated and sees voltages as low as 9v and as high as 19v. Because of that I tend to make appliances that operate on a wide voltage range if possible. For example, the little DC oven doesn't mind if the voltage is 11v, or swings up to 19v. The DC HEPA filter just speeds up or slows down! Still works... There are exceptions: I do use a USB DC regulator for 5v stuff because well... there is no way around it at the moment. Also you made a good point about excess power, indeed more panels help prop the voltage up. I have about 500w of panels to work with and generally don't find power lacking unless it's very dark. If it gets dark, I have a special "backup power" system I never showed, perhaps I'll get to it in part 2 :) In any case, I hope this answers some of your question at least, if I can further detail anything just let me know! -Dave

@solarpoweredge thank you!

@alvaro.piner1917 Welcome :)

@deathwish5410 That's a real bargain! gonna look for one around here :D

@simonallan9941 Despite being cheap, I was impressed the both soldered and crimped the alligator clamps... don't think I've seen that before at this price

@ECMVAQ137 That is awesome :D glad you like the videos and thanks for watching!

@jw3st0n Good news, I already made a USB cooker, will share as soon as humanly possible :D a USB-C PD oven is totally possible. (btw a newer version of this oven uses even less power!)

@ Nice!

@ECMVAQ137 Glad to hear it!! I appreciate the good feedback and support :)

@sysierius But then I can't complain about the noise! Seriously, good idea, I have to check those fans out

@nathanaelhanson2412 Right on... makes the cooker more efficient. In fact the authors in this paper mentioned an insulated container for cooking.... I later used 14w plus an insulated container to boil an egg with diodes. A great example of what can be achieved ua-cam.com/video/CRhkZp6ECHk/v-deo.html

@ClaudePelletier-my2qx Einstein sure had a point! Glad you liked this video and thanks for your kind feedback :D I like the water hose model a lot... it might not be totally scientific but I always found it very helpful

@inyoudeep1 Especially for 37 bucks :D I try not to complain too much :)

@memadmax69 I wasn't thinking of that at all... thanks for the tip!! PS This is why I never claim to be a cook....

@@solarpoweredge lol. Hey great vids btw keep it up and have a good one.

@memadmax69 Thanks :D take care

@truckywuckyuwu Right on, I build custom 12v appliances :D several 12-volt ovens, a 12v cooktop, and various other DC cooking appliances. You can see a few of my builds in the video linked below. Anyway, inverters will be here for a long time, millions of people use them, and me too sometimes. It's good to have options :) 12v cooktop, ovens cooking demo on a 200ah battery ua-cam.com/video/hQQrRcwd6dg/v-deo.html

@scottcov56 Thanks Scott... apparently there's more than one version of this unit. This specific one can handle a 100w load for an hour - no problem. Battery: 25.6v@9ah so about 200 watt-hour. A 100 watt load for 1 hour would be fine. Even 135w. A UPS isn't really intended for long term battery power. Another option is to get a solar generator with a larger battery, and use that for extended/standby emergency power. Just my thoughts and opinions... hope it helps